Between Shouts and Commissions: Cuba's "Buquenques"

In Cuba, so-called buquenques—passenger brokers who dominate informal taxi stands—operate across Havana and beyond, organizing intermunicipal travel before the sun heats the roads. The article describes them appearing at places such as Fraternity Park near the Santa Clara bus terminal and outside the Clínico Hospital on 26th Avenue, using only voices and a plastic stool during long waits. Their role is to summon destinations, coordinate seats in vintage US cars, and effectively press travelers to fill capacity, acting as intermediaries between passengers and drivers. Oscar “El Fino,” a 27-year-old broker, says they save drivers’ time and help set fares while preventing disputes. However, the piece describes a territory-based system where a stand leader, “chavia,” collects fees and may demand extra money in hard times, with rules enforced through threats of violence. Although Cuba’s self-employment law created an authorized legal category (number 53) for passenger brokers at authorized stands, the article notes that enforcement remains inconsistent in practice.