Put some respect on aeroplane food

A column revisited the debate over “airplane food,” arguing that taste differences at altitude and cabin conditions help explain why meals can feel bland. The article cites factors such as cabin pressure, dry air, and how air conditioning affects conditions inside the aircraft, and links these to changes in perception during long-haul travel. It frames the issue partly as psychology, referencing commentary attributed to NPR about unusual emotional behavior during flight. The piece then turns to historical sourcing, describing a 1973 moment when the CEO of Union de Transports Aériens worked with chef Raymond Oliver, who reportedly devised a strategy to combat dryness by relying on sauces and “turbo-Gallic” dishes. In a recent flight to JFK, the writer describes ordering tomato calamarata and receiving a damp salad.